My reference for the project was the black metal jewelry from Gujarat. The jewelry is closely associated with the festival of 'Navratri', one of the most important cultural aspects of Ahmadabad.
Looking at the tactile properties, visual textures, attributes, structure and construction of the black metal jewellery, some initial explorations were done on aluminium sheets.
Moulding, bending, metal relief work, assembly, symmetry etc. were kept in mind while exploring the textures.
Matt and shiny surface in one, tonality, reflective surfaces, relief and recess, defined edges, perforations were some of the explored attributes.
The above sample was obtained by first smocking a fabric, then heat-setting it. The concept was translating the attribute of the jewellery to have relief and recess. The translation being not so literal, depects the smaller punched and moulded forms on the jewellery onto fabric.
Another sample with smocking and heat-setting, depicting relief and recess in the jewelry.
Another sample with smocking and heat-setting, depicting relief and recess in the jewelry.
Various explorations were done to mold fabric by the heat-setting method, using molds like wire mesh etc.
Smocking done on satin fabric, to get the desired recess and relief.
Printing with caustic soda paste onto a tissue fabric gave the above effect. The concept was translating the oxidising attribute of the jewellery. To build on the fact that metal reacts with chemicals to become black and lose its shine. Visual interpretation of the forms on the jewellery.
Caustic paste ate up the metallic thread, when printed on shimmer fabric resulting in the above sample.
Shimmer fabric treated with caustic soda using the clamp dyeing method. The caustic ate up the metallic threads to give the above effect.
The caustic treated fabric is heat-set using a positive-negative frame.
The caustic treated fabric is heat-set using a positive-negative frame.
The positive-negative frame used to mold fabric, by sandwiching it in between the two.
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Fabric Construction

A classroom project where the brief was to get inspired from one of the many cultural treasures of Ahmadabad. A range of fabrics developed for the same using techniques like smocking, heat-setting etc. The end products here, can be used as fabrics for set designing and also for interior spaces.

Mrunmayee Namjoshi
Textile Designer Indore, India