Lois Gaylord

'Court' garb - Bliaut, rectangular construction, side lacing and silver embroidery. Belt braided from hand twisted cords. Has short train. Man's long tunic with split over tunic, also rectangular construction, embroidery to come.

Detail - Bliaut embroidery - Hand couched silver cord and silver soutache braid, original design based on background designs found in Medieval Spanish manuscripts

Bliaut details - side lacing - Reinforced side opening, machine worked eyelets, hand twisted cord Inside edge of sleeve cuff

Machine top stitching - Top stitching on edge of trim for neck opening of over tunic.

Hand stitching - close-up view of hand top stitching on tunic

Selection of garments made for Mary M. - From left: Light blue cotton tunic with wool blend sideless over tunic for SCA events. Dark blue velvet dress, sleeves and neck band trim came from a commercial top which was the inspiration for this garment. Priestess vestments, rectangular construction under dress with long vest. Gray Civil War re-enactment dress, striped cotton. Princess line dress, blue and black cotton.

Sideless overtunic - Wool blend overtunic light weight denim under tunic - rectangular construction, also drafted pattern

Sideless Overtunic - Wool blend overtunic light weight denim under tunic - rectangular construction, note underarm gussets, also drafted pattern

Priestess Vestments - Outfit made for officiating at a wedding. Dress is rectangular construction in a linen rayon blend with embroidered hem and cuffs. Vest is linen with black silk piping and neck band, style based on Japanese kimono, embroidery contributed by others.

Civil War Re-enactment dress - laundress - Her character is a laundress, so does not wear hoops, she normally would wear a stiff petticoat underneath the skirt. Pattern was adapted from a commercial costume pattern (McCall's)

Princess line dress - Major fitting challenge, this person is 4'8" tall with a very short waist. Added center back zipper to original pattern (a pull over dress would not work). See paper pattern on next slide to see alterations.

Pattern for Princess line dress - Pattern and muslin for fitting princess line dress in blue and black cotton. Pattern shows alterations necessary to fit very short, full busted figure.

Boned Bustier - Black Satin Boned Bustier made for my niece. Fitting was accomplished by sending muslin back and forth through the mail. Pattern was adapted from a princess line camisole pattern.

1920's costume - Under dress made from old satin table cloth, has spaghetti straps and dropped waist. Over dress is printed cotton voile, also drafted pattern

Costume for Dicken's Christmas Fair 1860's - Tiered skirt with hoops under, separate lower sleeves, also drafted pattern

Medieval Boy in the Current Middle Ages - Osnaberg shirt, rectangular construction hood, fleece