Jenny Bastrup

1900 In this portrait of Elizabeth Wharton Drexel, she is wearing a dress with a corset to enhance her bust and slim down her waist. Her tea dress includes sleeves that are worn off-the-shoulders and the neckline is a V-shape. The bodice has embroidery and the skirt of her dress has a rather elaborate train of soft fabrics. Edward VII became King in 1901. He encouraged a healthy social life and an emphasis on fashion. Haute couture inspired fashions and led to the mass production of some garments beginning this decade. The 1900s introduced a different silhouette than earlier years, the columnar silhouette, which emphasized the hourglass shape of women’s bodies. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Elizabeth_Drexel.jpg

1910 This dress, designed by Lucile in 1912, has a romantic feel, made of satin with a velvet bodice. The material is loosely draped and the colors are quite subtle. It is most definitely inspired by the designs of Paul Poiret. Paul Poiret was one of the most influential designers of the 1900s. He chose to free women’s bodies and do away with corsets. His designs were loose-fitting with flowing fabrics. The waistline of this dress is a bit higher than the last decade. Contemporary designs became popular in the 1910s and American fashions were inspired by publications such as Women’s Wear Daily. The end of WWI provided more jobs and greater appreciation for art and dance. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1910s_in_Western_fashion#/media/File:1912_evening_dress.jpg

1920 This pink evening dress was sold at the retailer Bonwit Teller in 1920. The dress is made of silk chiffon and silk ribbon. You will notice that the delicate draping of the past decade continued to be a popular style in the 1920s. Although the hem has changed, as it now hits the mid-calf, remnants of the 1910s are seen with the subtle train constructed with the outer chiffon fabric layer. The waistline is much lower and the silhouette of the dress is a bit wider than that of the previous decade. In the 1920s, department stores begun selling garments that were mass-produced copies of fashions seen in Paris. Americans became very much interested in material possessions. They were buying more and had higher standards of material comfort. Movies were now played in urban and rural areas, creating new fashion trends. http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/objects/asitem/761/75/dynasty-desc?t:state:flow=29ca24c7-c305-40c7-8a35-70b573766bd4

1938 This strapless dress made in 1938 is constructed of black silk with gores for added fullness in the skirt. It is one of the first strapless designs of the decade. The bodice fits close to the body in order to support the strapless element of the style. The waistline sits at what looks to be the natural waistline, instead of the lower waistline of the past decade. The skirt flares out quite a bit and the hem hits the floor. It is very likely that a zipper is used on this dress, as zippers became commonplace near the end of the 1930s. By this time, the brassiere and girdle were typical undergarments and probably helped this dress fit so perfectly. The movies were even more popular during the 1930s and many women, although living in poverty, dreamed of having the elaborate wardrobes they saw movie stars wearing. http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/172057

1947 This dress was made in 1947. Constructed of wool and rayon, with square shoulders and a mid-calf hem; it is fairly basic. It has some decorative metal design on the bodice and includes a zipper up the back and a tied belt. The neckline is high, with no real shape. The sleeves are straight and do not hit the wrists. The blandness of this dress is a result of World War II and the effects it had on fashion. Most designs closely resembled military styles and skirt hems grew shorter due to rations on fabric. During this time, haute couture houses were closed, causing American designers to gain more publicity than ever before. http://fidmmuseum.pastperfectonline.com/webobject/88A12EDC-C0D5-4A16-9184-517751544171

1950 After WWII, fashions became more artistic again. This dress from 1950, was made by an American designer. The dress is a vivid red silk, with intricate pleats. The silhouette is very straight. However, a massive tie-belt covers the stomach from under the bust to the waist, giving some contour to the dress. The hem during this decade touches the floor again. The dress is quite obviously inspired by Asian styles, as the neckline resembles a kimono and the tie-belt is similar to those worn by Japanese women. http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81115

1961 This wool cocktail dress by Norman Norell is a quintessential example of the first little black dress. The dress is ultra-feminine, with a classic vibe. The low, revealing, neckline and fitted waist was standard both with youth and sophisticated women. The skirt is much shorter than previous designs of the century. The idea was to wear this dress without a brassiere, allowing women to feel free, which aligns with the equality philosophies that began this decade. The 1960s was an important time for fashion, as more designers were focused on producing clothing for young adults, creating a fashion and buying frenzy. Modernists, young, fashionable people living in London influenced style everywhere. The miniskirt was the hottest style amongst style-conscience women. First Lady, Jackie Kennedy, inspired women to wear simple and elegant clothing. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1986.517.5/

1978 This dress, constructed in 1978 by Halston, is made of silk. The US Government resumed diplomatic relations with China during the 70’s, impacting trade, including silk. Given this, silk was widely used for clothing this decade. The dress is a bright red, one-shoulder, maxi style. The fabric fits loosely and wraps around the body, creating a very long slit from the shoulder to the hem. The flowing silk layers are universally flattering. The neckline remains low and the idea of not wearing undergarments continued as a striving and widespread trend throughout the 1970s. The hippie fashions of the 1960s gained even more popularity in the 1970s. The loose-fitting clothing, in bright colors was the predominate style of the decade. http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/79269

1981 This Halston body-hugging wrap dress from 1981 has a glamourous appeal, with its beads, sequins and metallic threads. It looks to be inspired by the wrap dresses designed for discos by Diane von Fürstenburg in the 1970s. The revealing neckline and high-thigh slit were popular design elements borrowed from the previous decade and are widespread in contemporary fashion designs. The overall style is very luxurious. Fashions in the 1980s were a whirlwind of styles. The postmodernist movement encouraged people to wear what they wanted, regardless of trends. Many postmodernists believed in the juxtaposition of different styles. This was, ironically, a trend itself. http://collection.imamuseum.org/artwork/22814/

1992 This Carolina Herrera design from 1992 is both elegant and youthful. The fitted bodice is structured with a bra-like style for support and reminiscent of a slip. The neckline is low and revealing, as in the past few decades. The silk skirt is very full and reaches the floor. The skirt is beautifully draped to form a knot. The layered tulle underskirt adds a lot to this dress. It gives the skirt even more fullness and also creates a ballerina look. The lavender and navy blue colors go together perfectly to add an overall cool mood to the garment. It’s likely that a strapless bra made of lace would have been worn under this dress for more support. Unlike the 1980s, many designers in the 90s were considered to be minimalists and used strong lines with little to no decorations on their garments. Simplicity and structure were predominant, as were retro styles and high-tech fabrics. http://fidmmuseum.pastperfectonline.com/webobject/266FA3DF-7128-4E58-ACC5-546423431430