![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_dckevyuzw3zvl3qzxercsugtj.jpg)
pcb layout.
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_barkqze2dzehel7cpoivawkmn.jpg)
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Standoff headers to seat the Arduino u-controller are soldered into place.
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_9cia2ieq0frrbxfgn2g4bdbge.jpg)
Using IC DIP sockets is a good practice in that IC's can be easily swapped or replaced if need be.
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_0vjl7n3gwisxwp0ceudcp93et.jpg)
The core u-controller of this module is the Arduino Uno. It's small footprint makes it a great solution. There is a mini usb connector which serves as an interface to upload firmware and software programs onto the Arduino.
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_nsandrmhl8_cnopapns47dran.jpg)
Mostly because they looked great, and seemed a bit more modern, I chose to order Neutrik switched and un-switched 1/4" TR jacks for this project. I have found these connectors to be more problematic than just using the plain old fashioned square TR jacks that are more common.
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_7n2ch7c7syvhs3jgc8cjppthl.jpg)
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I didn't find a template online for this module. Masking tape provides a night white surface for which to sketch upon. The tape also protects the panel from scarring when in the drill press.
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_s4mdj773nkxtmtwhn_v4h_ucq.jpg)
The expander panel, drilled and labeled. Slots for 1/4" jacks and LED indicators are ready to be filled.
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_9kc3viw8hc9jz8hradyhhoxlz.jpg)
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_opnrrrouhmbyufnw4syn3n9zc.jpg)
I ordered the female MTA connectors from Mouser.com and affixed AWG 20 stranded wire to each. I had to use a small and thin flat head screw driver to snap the wires into the MTA connectors. If I were doing this more often, I would opt for purchasing the $60.00 crimper tool, just to make the job a little easier. With MTA connectors of this type, also make sure you have the correct wire gate. One bad connection and your module wont work correctly.
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050__f2l6svkmspf4emfggsnjbu3c.jpg)
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_xtec78zgzafldkobbzhcymh36.jpg)
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_dnjolqex7lgzu90tgin9rdgf2.jpg)
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_eooqz3d_zefizoklp0jlj2xqa.jpg)
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_y88uopnepxzlyugavdu9hfewp.jpg)
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_fvcebtnc4r74zseyrlmnt0mlp.jpg)
Ultra-bright LED's make the module pop! I have since been using LED bezels to affix the LED's into my modules. Here, I think I substituted some heat gun glue behind each LED, within the panel.
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_jyihctiufdve0v3bv3ygqwmpg.jpg)
![](https://s3images.coroflot.com/user_files/individual_files/613050_0l6xpf5uu5axj3zoyryoiqmvo.jpg)
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